Taquero: A Mexican Fiesta in the Heart of 'The Village'

Quesadilla Al Pastor, Pickles Fritos and Charred Hispi cabbage

Another Tuesday evening and time for a mooch around the City to find somewhere good to eat. Sadly, the three amigos that normally form part of this foodie review trio was down to one. This outing was a solo trip - the other two had plans or couldn't get their leave passes signed off in time. I also think they still reckon a Monday or Tuesday is too early in the week to be slogging down delicious wine, cocktails, or whatever whilst devouring whatever delights the next restaurant has to offer. More for me (in a sense), I mused as I wandered through the side streets.

I found myself having an inner debate: what do I fancy? I'll be a walk-in, but it's Tuesday so maybe I'll get lucky. There's also a risk some places may not be open - another reaction to the tough market the hospitality industry finds itself in. I stood at a crossroads, figuratively and literally, in 'the village' (Hockley), my go-to place before venturing outside its boundaries. I've been calling it the village for years and trying to get it wedged into the local lexicon. I even once marked out the village boundaries and posted it on whatever social media app I was using back then - probably one of my hacked Facebook accounts which I've never been able to recover. But it never stuck. The Broadway and Hockley massive, that is to say people I know and hang out with, just used to look at me and shake their heads. "It will never stick," they'd say, "This isn't New York." I didn't care, I still secretly call it 'the village' in my head.

Back to the crossroads, the intersection of Broad Street, Stony Street, Carlton Street and Goose Gate. For a Tuesday evening, there were still a few die-hard revellers and diners kicking around, although 'The Village' has seen busier times. A couple walked past me towards Heathcote Street, my gaze followed, and there I spotted a place I've been dying to try out for a while but it always, even on those quiet weekdays, seemed to be busy. 'He who dares' was the motto for the evening.

I headed to Taquero, a newish Mexican restaurant, the latest brainchild of Bar Iberico owners Dan Lindsay and Jacque Ferreira. I keep using past tense as it did open a while ago, and a few of the other rag mags this city boasts have already covered their opening and done some reviews, but this wasn't really work - this was for me. Taquero means 'a person who sells tacos', but they don't just sell tacos. As I found out, there's over 27 plates including desserts to mull over.

Greeted by the front of house, I opened up with my usual line: "I'm a walk-in, any chance of a table?" The place was rammed, but I invoked the power of the positive universe - I also did spy a lonely table which could sit two but I think was meant for me. Sure enough, after a quick check, front of house smiled and walked me to the place I had spied.

Two menus quickly hit the table, and I was left alone to ponder the offerings. A server appeared, did the usual allergy question, and took my drink order - had to be a Modelo Especial, I'm in a Mexican restaurant after all. The specials menu included Quesadilla, Pickles Fritos, and a selection of accompanying drinks. The main menu held Chicharrin, Salsa Verde & Negro, Chicken Flauta, Ceviche Verde, and more offerings as small plates, plus ten taco options which all sounded amazing.

Someone that's been before suggested I try the Charred Hispi Cabbage - you never turn down a good lead, so that made it onto my mental decisioning board. I was hungry, so the decisioning was quicker than usual. I opted for:

• Quesadilla Al Pastor (£8.50) - Pork, Pineapple, Salsa Verde, Cheese, Onion & Coriander

• Pickles Fritos (£5.50) - Deep-Fried Dill Pickles, Onion and Coriander, Tajin, Chipotle Mayo

• Charred Hispi Cabbage (£7.50) - Hispi cabbage, white mole, salsa macha, candied seeds & nuts, and coriander

Order in, I surveyed the surroundings. Most if not all the tables were full - clearly Dan and Jacque know their business. The place itself, previously a former Oriental Mart shop, is stripped back to bare brick, stylish and designed to do the one thing it was created to do: feed you and ensure you have a great time whilst that's happening.

The first dish arrived - the Quesadilla Al Pastor. It looked and smelt amazing, but I couldn't try it though; I needed a great photo of all the dishes together. I started to get nervous as I've recently read a piece in The Guardian where restaurateurs are becoming increasingly frustrated with food tourists, those that just want to be seen to have gone to a place whilst not really bothered about the food - some don't even try the food but just take a few pictures for their socials and bugger off. I'm sure the waiter was staring at me wondering if I'm one of those food tourists, why isn't he eating his food, he was probably thinking.

A few minutes later, the rest of my decisions landed on the table. I took some photos, manoeuvring the plates around to get the money shot composition - as any photografter (yes, grafter) will tell you, composition is everything. I then sent it to the other two amigos, just to make them jealous of course (how dare they stay in with their partners or adopt a sensible school night attitude). Ant responded immediately: "Looks amazing!" then started to ask me questions. I ignored him, on purpose - let him eat cake, I thought. It was time to dig in.

First bite was the Quesadilla - the pork was soft, and the combination of the Salsa Verde, pineapple, cheese, onion and coriander worked brilliantly. I mean, ok, it's a Quesadilla, but one that's been thought through. I quickly moved onto the Charred Hispi Cabbage; it was crunchy, nutty and bursting with different flavours - a great dish. That's definitely part of my 1-a-day, I thought.

I eyed up the Pickles Fritos, looking a little like Churros but clearly the savoury type. I pulled one out of the pot, gave it a good dousing in the Chipotle Mayo and took a bite. That's when I nearly fell off my chair, but that would have been difficult as I was sat on a leather banquette. "What The Actual Fuck," I shouted in my head - it was amazing. A Mexican fiesta exploded in my mouth: a blend of mild chili peppers, sea salt and lime danced and played Mexican guitar on my tongue from the Tajin, the coriander and onions joined in on Vihuela's, the tangy dill pickles took up trumpets, and the Chipotle Mayo powered in on a guitarron - the full culinary mariachi ensemble playing ranchera, son de mariachi, huapango de mariachi, polka and corrido all at once. Wow, I thought.

My entrepreneurial business side started thinking about food stalls, trucks, vans just selling this dish (don't tell Dan or Jacque though). But this, just on its own, blew me away. Who knew a dill pickle could raise a full mariachi band and have a fiesta in your mouth?

I quickly finished the other dishes, washed down by the Modelo. I eyed up the desserts but, to be honest, I was stuffed. I wasn't there long, but it's one of those experiences that will definitely place Taquero on my NottsRocks hotspots list. Booking is advised as it is busy, but sometimes you need to throw caution to the wind and try a walk-in, 'cause that's the true spirit behind mariachi - the melodic expression of heartache and happiness.

Hasta la próxima, gente!

The Details:

• Location: Heathcote Street, Nottingham

• Price Range: Small plates and Taco’s £5.50-£12

• Atmosphere: Bustling, stylish

• Booking: Recommended

• Stand-out Dish: Pickles Fritos (But I’ll definitely be trying more!)

• Perfect For: Casual dining, date night, small groups